Pleasure Point – Huge South Swell

IMG_1844

IMG_1842It’s so hard to capture a good shot on my little iPhone. But the size today was amazing, and the shape! From the Hook to the Point was a short boarders paradise. 

I thought I’d get a jump on things…I got up at 5:30 AM, coffee in hand at 6:00 to check out the waves and decide what board to take. As I approached the cliff I could hear the waves pounding. Then, I saw the scene. At least 100 people.  Spread out but there they were, like little ants compared to the sets rolling through. And at 6:00 AM! 

In any case, I watched the show and it was incredible. Surfers were getting tubed at the Drainpipe – a rare sight to see, perhaps only a few times a year here. So, it was really cool.

I decided to wait it out and surf a little later. I chose a different spot a little mo’ betta for long boarding. Not telling where – but I had a great session on my 8’0″ Johnny Rice Quad Piglet. 

If you’re not gonna go get some waves this weekend, at least spend some time watching the local pros. Something you’ll remember.

Hasta Luego

 

Advertisements

2 thoughts on “Pleasure Point – Huge South Swell

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s