I thought I’d get a jump on things…I got up at 5:30 AM, coffee in hand at 6:00 to check out the waves and decide what board to take. As I approached the cliff I could hear the waves pounding. Then, I saw the scene. At least 100 people. Spread out but there they were, like little ants compared to the sets rolling through. And at 6:00 AM!
In any case, I watched the show and it was incredible. Surfers were getting tubed at the Drainpipe – a rare sight to see, perhaps only a few times a year here. So, it was really cool.
I decided to wait it out and surf a little later. I chose a different spot a little mo’ betta for long boarding. Not telling where – but I had a great session on my 8’0″ Johnny Rice Quad Piglet.
If you’re not gonna go get some waves this weekend, at least spend some time watching the local pros. Something you’ll remember.