Pleasure Point – Huge South Swell

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IMG_1842It’s so hard to capture a good shot on my little iPhone. But the size today was amazing, and the shape! From the Hook to the Point was a short boarders paradise. 

I thought I’d get a jump on things…I got up at 5:30 AM, coffee in hand at 6:00 to check out the waves and decide what board to take. As I approached the cliff I could hear the waves pounding. Then, I saw the scene. At least 100 people.  Spread out but there they were, like little ants compared to the sets rolling through. And at 6:00 AM! 

In any case, I watched the show and it was incredible. Surfers were getting tubed at the Drainpipe – a rare sight to see, perhaps only a few times a year here. So, it was really cool.

I decided to wait it out and surf a little later. I chose a different spot a little mo’ betta for long boarding. Not telling where – but I had a great session on my 8’0″ Johnny Rice Quad Piglet. 

If you’re not gonna go get some waves this weekend, at least spend some time watching the local pros. Something you’ll remember.

Hasta Luego

 

Inspirations from Sea Glass

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When there are no waves what does a surfer do? Well, one of the things I enjoy is beach combing. I’m always on the lookout for unusual finds and typically come back with a pocketful of sea glass.

May favorite sea glass color is the dark, yet bright, blue. Very rare. So instead my jar at home is primarily filled with various shades of green, white, and some brown.

A fellow surfing friend requested this custom leather beaded triple wrap bracelet design. Predominantly green to match her eyes (and it does so almost perfectly), I named this design “Sea Glass”. I came to learn that she has an Ashley Lloyd Thompson surfboard, which she also named “Sea Glass”. I love serendipity!

To see this design and others, checkout my gallery.

When the surf is not happening, what do you like to do?

Happy beach combing!

Fun at the Logjam! 2013

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If you live at the Point, you’re likely to hear the sound of a surf contest horn every weekend from spring through fall. In addition to spending a little time planning where you’re going to surf, it also means there’s a constant source of entertainment.

This past weekend was probably my most favorite contest: The Logjam! put on by the Big Stick Surfing Association. Here’s why:

  • pre-1970 old boards only
  • no leashes (aka kook cords)
  • first day is Aloha day where everyone surfs twice in mixed heats (men, women, and abilities)
  • Aloha Team competition: 2 surfers on 2 old boards riding the same wave together
  • probably the best T-shirt designs

And no, I didn’t compete. But my friend and surfboard shaper, Ashley Lloyd Thompson, suggested I get out there in 2014. We shall see!

The photos really say it all so here are some links to the best I’ve seen so far. Enjoy!:

Big Stick Surfing Association

Howard “Boots” McGhee

Paradise Surf

Happy 75th Johnny Rice!

Today’s a special day for the legendary surfer and surfboard shaper, Johnny Rice. Not only is it his 75th birthday but Santa Cruz Mayor, Hilary Bryant, issued a proclamation that April 21, 2013 is Johnny Rice Day. But if you know Johnny and his positive outlook on life, then you’d know that he considers every day to be special.

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I’ve known Johnny and his wife Rosemari for quite a while and he’s shaped a number of boards for me, 2 of which are my absolute favorites: a 9’3″ pintail and an 8’3″ quad piglet.

To learn more about Johnny, check out this old story by Nina Wu.

Happy Birthday to my good friend and favorite shaper!